Category Archives: Iceland

Skimping in Iceland

The sky glowed in soft twilight as we groggily stumbled into our Reykjavik guesthouse around 2 a.m. The next morning we picked up our rental car, grabbed some lobster soup, and headed north.

(View all of our pictures on my facebook album).

Iceland packs all of nature’s most powerful destructive/creative forces into a tiny island. Rivers, waterfalls, wind, glaciers, volcanos, the ocean, mountains, plains, deserts, cliffs, forests, grasslands. It’s as if all of the geography in the world was condensed into an island the size of Ohio. The language and genepool has remained virtually unchanged since the Vikings landed around 900CE. All of the island’s 320,000 inhabitants can trace their lineage back to the original Viking settlers. This, and much more, we learned from Ymir, the hitchhiker we picked up.

Our first day we made an 8-hour drive from Reykjavik to Ísafjörður, the largest city (pop. 2,600) in the Westfjords. The Westfjords are remote. You can drive for two hours without seeing another human being. The road winds its way around sheer crevices carved by glaciers eons ago. The landscape looks like somebody picked up the Rocky Mountains and dropped them in the ocean. We finally reached Ísafjörður around 11:30 p.m. We drove up the road a bit into a secluded cove and parked for the night.

One thing to know about Iceland: it’s expensive.

The cheapest meal that we had was at a gas station. We paid $18 for two orders of fries and a hot dog. We couldn’t afford to rent a car and get a hotel, so we decided to make our car our hotel. We laid the seats down in the back of our Hyundai Santa Fe, rolled out the sleeping backs, and made camp. We picnicked on bird sandwiches. (We couldn’t figure out what meats we were buying in the grocery store, but I found one that had a bird on it, so we got that one). Three bites into her sandwich, Sara grabbed another generous handful of lettuce and stuffed it into her sandwich. Seeing her gratuitous excess of lettuce, I enthusiastically said, “Yeah! Get more lettuce. We don’t skimp in Iceland!” She put her sandwich down, looked at me for a moment, then said, “Davo, we’re sitting in the back of an SUV, eating sandwiches from the grocery store because we can’t afford a hotel or restaurant.”

The next day we hiked. I mentioned that the Westfjords were remote, right? We hiked one of the most popular trails in the entire region. In four hours of hiking, we saw two other people. The trail led up to the highest peak in the region. We didn’t make it all the way up, because we stopped to play in a waterfall.

Our waterfall

Here’s another thing to know about Iceland: It has lots of waterfalls; they’re all awesome.

The isolated beauty of the Westfjords was staggering. I felt like we were bumping around in the Lord of the Rings. Every time we turned a corner we were greeted with a new, breathtaking view. After our hike, we started heading out of the Westfjords, along a dirt road that led us over the mountains. The roads reflected the remote nature of the region. My favorite was the sign that indicated that the portion of the road was to be a 20% downhill grade. (We also checked out Fjallfoss and a natural hot spring on our way.)

From the Westfjords we headed to Mývatn, sleeping somewhere between the two. The region was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions over the past 4,000 years. The lava got dammed and formed a lake. The entire region is alive with geological activity: steam vents, mud pits, and smoking ground. The magma chamber refilled in the late ’70s, so it’s set to go again sometime soon. As we hiked among 30-foot-high lavaflows, giant craters, and towering steam vents, Sara witnessed the nerdy, earth-science-loving, 7-year-old Davo exploding at the seams.

After spending a night in Mývatn, we headed to Dettifoss, the country’s second-largest waterfall. This area of the country we referred to as “the moon.” It was a giant, lifeless plain of ancient lavaflows encircled by ancient volcano cones. This area, like the Westfjords was remote, as we were soon to find out. There wasn’t a house, tree, even shrub for 50km in any direction.

We had left Mývatn with a half tank of gas. As we got a ways further into the interior, we realized we’d need to get gas soon. We found a town on the map that had a gas station and made towards it. Möðrudalur (pop. 40) was situated at the cross of two dirt roads. It was here that Iceland’s record low temperature was recorded: -36°F. We nicknamed the place Mordor because the surrounding landscaped seemed to only lack a black tower. Arriving in Mordor, err, Möðrudalur, we were informed that the pumping tank was empty, and that the refill truck wasn’t expected until later that evening. The woman kindly offered to siphon some of the gas from her own car for us. After discussing with her, she said we probably had enough gas to make it to the next refill station about 45 kilometers away. “If you don’t make it, you can just call me and I’ll come pick you up,” she said. We made it on fumes, and took note to pay more attention to the gas gauge, once it dropped below a half-tank.

Mordor!

We headed south towards the coast and Vatnajökull, Iceland’s largest glacier, and the largest icecap outside of the poles. For the mountain pass, we decided to take a dirt road to shave off some time. Once we crested the mountain and started heading down, we found ourselves in split-pea-soup clouds. The rain turned roads to slick mud as we careened down 17% grades and hairpin turns. Had we slipped would we have plummeted off a cliff or rolled into a nice grassy field? We have no idea. Visibility was about 20 feet.

We made it safely to the other side and settled in for the night. The next day we drove around Vatnajökull and the glacial floodplain. We found a place where the glacier was flowing into the ocean. Large chunks would break off, pummel in the waves before washing onto the shore. The saltwater would polish the huge chunks of ice like blue glass before depositing them on the black sand beach.

Next we visited Skaftafell and Svartifoss, which is probably the coolest waterfall I’ve ever seen. Svartifoss spills over columns of volcanic bassalt, which have broken off over the years into bizarrely geometric shapes resembling a honeycomb. It’s unlike everything I’ve ever seen. From Svartifoss, we hiked up a ridge to get a view of the glacier before scampering back down to beat the rain.

Finally, we made our way to Geysir and Gulfoss, the largest foss (waterfall) in Iceland. Geysir was cool. I’ve never seen a geyser before, and even to my enlightened, 21st-century mind, the mechanics of it were baffling. I tried to imagine myself a Viking coming across this bizarre phenomenon. What must they have thought? Gulfoss was spectacular, of course. But by this point we’d seen about 100 spectacular waterfalls and kinda just wanted to check it off the list. Check it off we did, then found a place to spend the night.

The next day we headed to the Blue Lagoon, a natural, hot-spring, pool, oasis, spa–Iceland’s equivalent of Disney World according to our trusty, well-used Lonely Planet. It was nice to relax and soak after roughing it for 5 days, but overall, I’d say it’s not worth the time or money. After spending a morning in the tourist trap, we headed to Reykjavik, returned the car, and played in Reykjavik for the evening. It’s a fabulously fun city, with cozy cafes and earthy pubs. We had some of the best seafood I’ve ever eaten. We stumbled across a graffiti-art festival in one of the squares. A group of kids ages 7 to 13 were breakdancing in the middle of the square for tips. As Sara observed, the city is a hippie paradise.

We were sad to leave, but had an amazing time. Without a doubt, it’s in the top 3 on my list of coolest places I’ve ever been. If you’re thinking of going there, we can definitely tell you what should be on the must-see list and what’s not worth your time (I’m looking at you, Blue Lagoon). We did it on about as tight of a budget as is possible for Iceland, so we can give tips on how to keep it cheap, too.

(View all of our pictures on my facebook album).

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Home again Home again…. sorta.

We are back in Prague and stuffed full of yummy summer salads and produce. Prague is the closest thing we have to home right now and there are many things about it that feel homey, but I am itching to be settled.  As we were flying home from Stockholm, I realized the next time we are on a plane it will be to South Korea, it will be going “home.”  Will South Korea ever feel like home?  Right now I am missing summer evenings on the porch, yelling “KITTIES” at dinner, the O School craziness, cooking in my kitchen, and Monday music in the park.  It feels like now that the major portions of our travels are over, and we should be going home. Home is Chicago, home is e-block, home is the hood.  But, I need to get used to the idea of home away from home, which will be Korea.

Ok, enough of the current thought process; lets talk about our travels.  As far as I am concerned our itinerary was perfect.  Ireland was full of family, friends, and warm welcoming Irish culture.  Iceland was the earth in its rawest, purest form.  Finland was an experience. Here is our conversation when we got of the plane:

Me: “So, were in Finland! … Do you know anything about Finland?”
Davo: “Nope!”
Me: “Neither do I.”
Davo: “Sweet so, where are we staying?”
Me: “I dunno!”

In Finland we went to a “Great Beers, Small Breweries” festival.  We were really excited about it, and then we realized that we knew nothing about the beers or brewers there, and the brochure was in Finish which meant… we had to make friends.  Davo saw a man swirl his beer around and then take a huge whiff, and he decided those were the people we should make friends with.  I agreed.  We made great friends that night, drank great beer, talked about Finish culture and learned all about “Lapland” (that is where Santa really lives apparently) and how people think about things in Finland.  It was perfect.  We ate fresh produce from the market, ate Salmon, and explored the city and culture that we knew nothing about.  Turns out Finland is pretty cool, and even though Davo nicknamed Helsinki “Hell-stinky,” it was not stinky or hellish. It was pretty fun to explore a place that you know nothing about and did not research before.  We did not take too many pictures in Helsinki… oops.  And we forgot to bring our camera to the beer fest 😦

Salmon salad made with ingredients from the fresh market. At this point I was pining away for fresh produce and we got it here!

A church in Helsinki that is apparently the symbol of the city.

Stockholm was surprisingly very different than Helsinki.  In fact, I would say that you would have no clue that they were so closely linked historically unless someone told you.  The city was much larger and situated on a cluster of islands so, it is very watery.  We drank at Akkurat which was apparently beer heaven (Davo can tell you more about that because it is more his thing), walked a lot, took a boat ride to an Island, ate Swedish ice-cream and basically chilled.  We had traveled at this point so we took it easy and partied hardy at night 🙂

We went on a boat to a island just outside the city. We got to see the city from the water and eat ice cream. Davo got cardamon flavored ice cream… yum.

I realize that this post is getting long so I am going to save Iceland for later this week when I am inspired.  But here are some good ones in the mean time… Also we will get some pictures of Ireland up later.

Sunset at 1am in the Westfjords.

Our waterfall that we played in while hiking. We saw only two people while hiking near here for about 4 hours. Life was rough…

Svartifoss… one of the many breathtaking waterfalls… we had to share this one with others though :/

Hello glacier and very blue ice.

We almost ran out of gas here… that might have been an issue. We called the parts that looked like this “the moon.”

Reykvavik might have been a little bit artsy. We will post more about this 🙂

Looking forward to talking more about Iceland because it honestly might be the coolest place I have ever been.  Kolkata, India has my heart and always will be my favorite place on earth but I think Iceland takes the cake in coolness points. Ta-ta for now!

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You should book tickets to Iceland now.

I am currently sitting in the same library in Reykjvik that I wrote my last post in.  Davo and I spent 5 glorious days in the wild Iceland nature and it did NOT disapoint.  I was a little bit concerned that my expectations were too high, but as it turns out there are just some things in this world that I could not even dream up and that is what Iceland is… a dream.  I know that sounds corney, but I promise you Iceland is unlike anything you have ever seen unless you are lucky enough to have been here. 

Now that I have wet your appetite I am going to have to go, but I cannot WAIT to share stories and pictures because they are out of this world. (Although ever time Davo and I took a picture we would say that just does not capture this image well enough)

If you are curious now and just can´t wait for pictures then you should know that we made it around the whole island including the westfjords (our favorite spot) and you could look up images of ‘route one’ or the ‘ring road’ in Iceland or the ‘westfjords.’  

We are off to Helsinki tomorrow and will be back in Prague in less than a week and you can expect some fat picture filled blogs then. 🙂

Hippie Paradise

About a year ago I asked one of my friends if I was a hipster because I was a little bit confused about the term. He laughed at me and said ‘Sara, there is a difference between hippIES and hipSTERS’ implying that I clearly fell into the hippie catagory. Well I have to say that my first impression of Iceland is that this must be the place where all of the hippies of the world unite to go on their nature extravaganzas.  And although I have been labled a hippie more than a few times I have to say that this feels like a different level of hippie than I think I am at.  Never the less, I am ready to rough it in the hard core nature extremes that Iceland has to offer for the next 5 days… sleeping in the car 🙂

As we flew in to Reyjavik I could tell that this country offers terrain that I have truly never seen.  After we broke through the clouds durring our decent, all I could see was a vast, rocky, flat land that looked like pictures I have seen of the moon but brownish in color instead of silver.  After we landed and loaded up on duty free booze (this is what all the locals do because apparently it costs a small fortune to buy alochol here), we caught the ‘fly bus’ into the city. (Mike we got some Brennivin and ill let you know how it is :). On the way in there was little to see but more of this rocky terrain with scattered houses and ZERO trees… so strange!  I was prepared for the sun to be shining at 2am as we were driving into the city however, it still rendered me a little bit suprised and my mind had a difficult time contemplating that it was not 6am. 

We got to our cute little guest house and were warmely greeted by the women who lives in and runs the house. We hunkered down with our eye covers on our faces, ear plugs in our ears, and melatoinins so as to get the best sleep possible before heading out into the ruggid countryside with sleepingbags for the car. 

This morning I went for a run and then we got our monster truck (it isn´t really a monster truck but if feels like one driving it). As I began to drive I was SO relieved to be driving in a car with a steering wheel on the left.  All the driving tension of Ireland melted away and we went the harbor to get lobster soup from an old Icelandic man that has apparently been there his entire life making delicious meals for people from the sea. As we slurped up our soup, we looked out over the water to the mountains that we will be able to explore with child like excitment. 

We are at the library right now attempting to pause and reflect on our time.  I know time will fly and we will be laughing talking about the time we went to Iceland, drove around, ate whale, and slept in the car… I mean who even does that?  But, for now we get to indulge in this carefree lifestyle with all the hippies in their nature paradise.  After I sign off we are driving into the sunset that never sets with not one plan but to see as much as possible and expereince it all! Pictures will come I can´t wait to share our experience with all of you.

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